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Sewing line balancing, SAM and capacity

Paste the garment operations and find out how many garments the line makes a day, how many operators each operation needs for demand, where the bottleneck is and what a minute costs.

Pre-sizing and estimating tool: results do not replace design, calculations or reports signed by a licensed professional, nor verification against the applicable codes and standards.

Pre-sizing
Garment operations
See what was read

Times must be standard times (allowances included), per garment. An operation done twice per garment (e.g. two sleeves) goes in with the time for both.

Line and demand
Labor cost
—Garments per day with the balanced line
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Load at each station vs takt

Actual time per garment at each operation (standard time ÷ operators ÷ efficiency), with the operators assigned. The dashed line is demand takt.

Tap the chart to see the values.

Operators and minutes by machine type

Operators assigned to each machine type and standard minutes of the garment on it.

Tap the chart to see the values.

Line balance

Operators needed for demand and operators assigned from the available headcount, in steps of 0.5.

Next step

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Method, assumptions and references

Equations used

SAM = Σ standard times; takt = shifts × minutes per shift ÷ daily demand
Operators for demand at operation i = t_i ÷ (efficiency × takt), rounded up in steps of 0.5
Headcount assignment: start at 0.5 per operation and add 0.5 to the station with the largest t_i ÷ n_i until headcount runs out; bottleneck = max(t_i ÷ n_i)
Garments per day = shifts × minutes × efficiency ÷ bottleneck; balance efficiency = SAM ÷ (operators × bottleneck); capacity by minutes = operators × shifts × minutes × efficiency ÷ SAM
Paid cost per minute = monthly payroll ÷ (operators × minutes per day × days); productive = paid ÷ efficiency; labor per garment = daily payroll ÷ garments per day

Assumptions and limits

  • All operators work at the same average efficiency and the line is fed without material shortages. Style changeover time must be taken out of the minutes per shift or the efficiency.
  • Assignment in steps of 0.5 is a heuristic that minimizes the bottleneck; it is a good arrangement, not necessarily the optimum, and ignores operation precedence and individual skills.
  • Machines per type are approximate: operators splitting the shift across machine types need more than one machine.

Standards and technical documents

  • ILO. Introduction to Work Study, 4th ed., International Labour Office, 1992
  • Glock, R. E.; Kunz, G. I. Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product Analysis, 4th ed., Pearson, 2005 (line balancing)
  • Solinger, J. Apparel Manufacturing Handbook: Analysis, Principles and Practice, 2nd ed., Bobbin Blenheim, 1988
  • Rother, M.; Shook, J. Learning to See, Lean Enterprise Institute, 1999 (takt time)

U.S. regulations

  • Fair Labor Standards Act (29 U.S.C. 201 et seq.): minimum wage and overtime
  • OSHA 29 CFR 1910.212: General requirements for all machines

Frequently asked questions

What does this calculator do?

It adds up the sewing operation times of a garment (the SAM), works out how many garments the line makes per day and per hour, how many operators each operation needs to meet demand and where the bottleneck is. Use it to plan a new style, set up the line or decide whether an order can ship on time.

Where do I get the time for each operation?

From a time study (timing the operation several times and applying performance rating and allowances) or from predetermined time systems such as GSD. The time study calculator helps turn stopwatch readings into a standard time. Without your own data, start from a similar style and correct after the first run.

How do I read the example result?

The T-shirt has 9 operations and a SAM of 4.50 min. With demand of 800 garments in 450 minutes, takt is 0.5625 min. The 13 operators at 75% efficiency, well assigned, deliver 843 garments a day (112.5 an hour); the bottlenecks are topstitch neckline, close side seams and trim and inspect, at 0.40 standard min per operator.

What is line balance efficiency?

It is SAM divided by operators × bottleneck time. In the example, 4.50 ÷ (13 × 0.40) = 86.5%: 13.5% of paid time turns into waiting because operations do not split evenly among people. Well-balanced lines exceed 85%; below 75%, combine short operations or split long ones.

What is the difference between capacity by minutes and balanced output?

Capacity by minutes assumes all operator time becomes output: in the example, 13 × 450 × 75% ÷ 4.5 = 975 garments. Real output is limited by the slowest station and comes to 843. Planning on the first number is a common mistake that causes late orders.

What does a sewing minute cost?

In the example, a $41,600 monthly payroll divided by the minutes paid (13 × 450 × 21) gives $0.339 per paid minute, or $0.452 per productive minute at 75% efficiency. With the imbalance, labor comes to $2.35 per garment, versus $2.03 from SAM × productive minute. Take these figures to the garment cost calculator.

What are the limits?

Assignment in half operators is a heuristic: it gives a good arrangement, not necessarily the optimum, and it ignores operation sequence and individual skills. Efficiency is the same for everyone, and absences, style changes and cutting delays cut real output. Use the result as a starting point and adjust on the floor.